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Known for its Beauty, Kashmir Beautifully manifests Neelum Valley which houses approximately 380 cities, villages and settlements; the river is named due to its curves and blue colour (visible by the end of July every year) enters Azad Kashmir from Gurias (LOC) and merges with Jhelum River in the north of Muzaffarabad, the capital of Kashmir.

Always in the limelight and a red-hot issue for both India and Pakistan, the division of Kashmir is a stimulating sight to look at, and strangely the majority is divided by the mountain however there are two locations where Neelum Valley itself serves as a natural border; Teetwal and Keran…

Keran is located 95 Kilometers away from Muzaffarabad, is not only in Azad Kashmir (Part of Pakistan) but also in Occupied Kashmir, India, established by Raja Bhaudar Khan in the tenth century have seen relocation a couple of time due to frequent firing and shelling of Indian Army.

The beauty of the city is self-evident for its visitors; with its towering hills and panoramic views, covered with humongous trees, mainly pine; houses multiple streams and glaciers, runs parallel to Kaghan Valley (another sight to awe) can also be approached via Kaghan; Amazingly the people of the two habitations share the same religious and socio-cultural background and observe the peace that this place marked.

It was first time that I felt the importance of resolution of this matter; first time I felt that we are so close to our apparent rivals, though divided I felt happiness to see so called Indian Kashmir without any border, and just a seemingly omnipresent, barb wire spread all over to divide what is naturally together.

It is hard to believe that a place which is otherwise so beautiful welcoming and soothing, cannot let families on both sides of the river mingle due to the army bases of both countries, but as they say, love has no boundaries; locals have sought out ways to communicate with their precious ones divided by the sea.

During winter when the Neelum shrinks; locals on both sides transfer goods and letters impressively; “We get visas very easily; we have families at both ends; we love each other and communicate via tyres; yes vehicular tyres; the families at the other side want their daughters to get married here, the last time I went there it was a wedding” – Hotel Worker, Valley Tracker Hotel, Keran.

Astonished by his remarks, we were blessed to see the other side of Kashmir, a more beautiful one not physically but culturally…

“To Serenity”

“Never Ending Footsteps”

Sadly, the only functional bridging point between the two parts is Teetwal (Tithwal as it is called in occupied Kashmir); located in Lower Neelum, though bus services also allow Kashmiris to pass the line of control fortnightly depending on the relationship and situation on the border.

Though the trip made me learn a lot and left me stunningly inspired, deep inside I was perplexed how I felt about this very lifestyle, perhaps they know it best.

An architect leading Studio Hast and Arif Shah Private Limited in Karachi. Beyond design, I'm a solo traveler sharing tales on Qasasul Safar. I champion camaraderie, empowering women through travel. For me, it's about soul-stirring experiences. When not designing or exploring, I'm painting vibrant canvases and indulging in culinary delights. Life, to me, is a colorful adventure meant to be savored.

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